69. Same But Different (4 August 2026)
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| A memorial walkway, with one olive tree for each one who died, and their name engraved on a plaque (4 Aug. 2026 - Port of Beirut) |
Maria, Sevag and I were visiting friends that day six years ago, enjoying some properly-masked, outdoor, Covid-era socialization, when in an instant the world changed. It was a day very different than the five anniversaries since: part summer beauty, part horror movie. And subsequent August fourths have been different, yet mired in the numbing sameness of impunity that blankets not just Lebanon, but all the countries of the region. How easy and how natural it is to conclude that nothing will ever change, particularly in the Middle East?
After a 130-day stay in Armenia we
returned home to Lebanon over two weeks ago. The reason I know that number is because
each night my computer reminded me how long it had been since its last backup. So,
arriving home and reconnecting the backup drive was particularly satisfying, and
not the usual same-old same-old.
We were wondering, "What will open next to
the Starbucks coffeeshop?" We returned to
find that a "Latte Art" coffeeshop opened.
(18 July 2026 - Mar Mikhael-Beirut)
Reconnecting with daily life in Beirut brought a strange sensation of being the same as any other day, like we had never left; yet something was different. Nothing seemed out of place, and we had no sense of disconnection. Everything appeared the same, save that it was cold then and stiflingly hot and humid now. Things we were following in the news since March, such as displaced families along the seaside and tent cities on open lots, were nowhere to be seen. Before our return they had been moved to other locations set up by the government, it seems. The construction of huge, meaningless structures has continued. Weddings, graduations and social activities went on without hiatus. The dollarization of the economy continued, as has emigration from Lebanon to the ostensibly “secure” West. Everything was just as it has always been. Or perhaps not.
On the street directly behind our
residence (and the church headquarters) two lots have been temporarily spared from
having new apartment buildings erected on them, because Roman-era structures were
found just under the surface of the soil. Archaeologists have expressed surprise
at these findings, as they had no evidence that the city limits of Berytus (as
it was called 2,000 years ago) extended this far east. Additionally, in these
past months a Roman necropolis (cemetery) was unearthed nearby. I am sure that
there is much more that could be found if there is a willingness – and funding –
to do so. And the accepted history of the city will change!
The latest archaeological dig, right behind us;
and another dig to the left of the tall white
building. (21 July 2026 - Geitawi-Beirut)
One can be numbed by sameness, or
near-sameness, and miss seeing the changes and developments that occur all the
time. I try to take note of variations, whether in music or speech or ideas, differences
that help me to maintain interest in things that seem deathly stable. Even when
dealing with people who “will never change”, there, too, I can see changes,
though it might be for the worse.
One last coffee before our departure!
Smile! (15 July 2026 - Yerevan)
“So, how was Armenia?” – I am excitedly asked by people who are tired of the daily challenges of life in Lebanon, expecting me to praise every detail of Armenia (by which they mean the Yerevan that they know from their 10-day vacations there) and do the usual, point-by-point comparisons, putting Lebanon down. When I try to point out both pros and cons, striving to present a more nuanced picture, they are often not interested, certain that the “Armenia-good/Lebanon-bad” formula is the unchanging standard. Our extended stay there enriched our appreciation both for what Armenia has, as well as what it doesn’t have. We understood more deeply that Armenia is more than a political entity; what is “Armenia” and “of Armenia” is also present in people and places outside those borders, not the least of which include Lebanon and Syria.
“So, what’s it like in Lebanon?” – I
am also asked by those who assume it is better than life in Armenia. Their
question is often tinged with regrets over the war, which may be thwarting
their hopes for leaving Armenia. Others will ask how safe it is to be living in
a non-Christian country and are surprised when I reveal that Arabs can also be
Christian. My telling them, “It’s the same in many ways, but also different”
does not convince them to appreciate the layers of understanding demanded by
such questions, sure as they are that my answers will be the same as the
conclusions they’ve already drawn. 
LebCat 69: "Oh, hello. Since you weren't
using your balcony for the past 4-1/2 months,
I kept all the strangers away, OK?"
(26 July 2026 - Geitawi-Beirut)

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